How to Set Up an Aquarium: Easy Step-by-Step Guide

 

Fish keeping is a fun hobby that can be very rewarding, but challenges are to be expected. Bringing home any new creature will require time and planning, whether it’s a dog or a fish. You’ll save yourself a lot of time and money by knowing what you need to get started before you even purchase an aquarium. Here are the things you need to know about setting up an aquarium.

First Things First: Pick Your Fish

Choose the type of fish you want for your aquarium. Do as much research as you possibly can. You may start reading about a fish, only to realize it’s not for you. Some fish aren’t for beginners, some have specific tank size needs, some don’t get along with tank mates. All fish aren’t for all fish keepers, especially if you’re new to the hobby.

Where to Start?

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Fish like guppies and goldfish are great for new fish keepers because they are hardy, interesting, and generally can withstand a learning curve. However, guppies and goldfish are not ideal tank mates. They have different temperature preferences and goldfish will eat just about anything, including guppy fry. In fact, if your goldfish are big enough, they’ll eat your adult guppies too!

If you have no idea where to start, check out forums or even go to your local aquatic stores, look at the fish, and talk to the employees. This is really going to help you narrow down your fish preferences and help you identify fish that make good tank mates.

Now You Need an Aquarium

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Once you’ve identified the type of fish you’re interested in and you’ve become acquainted with their needs, you should have a good idea of the size of tank they need. Some fish even have preferences for the shape of their tank. Weather loaches are going to have vastly different tank needs than a shoal of neon tetras.

Keep in mind that you don’t have to buy a tank right away that will suit the maximum size of your fish, but you should have a plan in mind to address a new tank when the time comes. That cute 3-inch weather loach may be a 10-inch behemoth before you know it, and that’s not even counting its friends since weather loaches prefer to be kept in groups. Don’t set yourself up to fail with your tank!

Here are the tank elements you need to investigate for your chosen fish:

• Filtration: There are hundreds of filters on the market, so narrowing it down to the perfect one can be intimidating. The size, type, and number of fish you’re planning to bring home will help you choose. A tank with Neocaridina shrimp can get by with just a sponge filter. A tank with four goldfish likely needs a HOB or canister filter that is rated for a tank larger than the tank you’ve purchased. Generally, you can under-filtrate, but you aren’t going to over-filtrate your tank. The exception to this is that some fish require very slow-moving or gentle currents. Betta fish, for example, cannot withstand strong filters with powerful output and usually do best with low-powered filtration. You should, however, still plan to provide adequate filtration.
• Heating: Guess what! Not all fish need heaters! Cool and cold-water fish usually don’t require heaters when kept in climate-controlled environments, like inside a house with heating and air conditioning. Unless you keep your house unusually cool, you may not need a heater for goldfish. Most tetras, on the other hand, are tropical fish, so they require a heater, even in comfortable indoor environments. Investing in an aquarium thermometer will help you monitor the temperature while you’re preparing your tank for fish, so this gives you plenty of time to see how different temperatures in the room the aquarium will be kept in may impact the temperature of the water, allowing you to make an educated decision about a heater.
• Substrate: Any fish that forage or spend time in the lower parts of the water column will have preferences for substrate textures and densities. Kuhli loaches like to burrow, so they do well with sand and other soft substrates. Goldfish have been known to get gravel lodged in their mouth, so they tend to do best with sand or pebbles that are too large for them to fit into their mouth. Also, some substrates will alter your water chemistry. Crushed coral, aragonite, and some planted tank substrates will raise or lower your tank pH. Aquarium gravel and sand are usually inert and won’t alter the pH, but there are exceptions to this. Make sure you thoroughly investigate the potential impacts your substrate may have on your water parameters.
• Tank Stand: Technically, this isn’t part of your tank, but it’s extremely important you choose the right tank stand. A gallon of water weighs around 8-9 pounds, so a 10-gallon tank is going to weigh significantly less than a 75-gallon tank. When it comes to determining the weight of your tank, also remember to count the weight of the empty tank and any substrate or décor you’re planning to add. You can’t just grab that old dresser from your garage and call it a tank stand. Not all pieces of furniture are strong enough to hold an aquarium. The last thing you want is to come home to a flooded house and dead fish because the stand you chose collapsed.

Fancy Up the Place!

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Live plants are an excellent addition to an aquarium. They help to remove waste products from the water and can provide an enriching environment for your fish. However, some fish are extremely hard on live plants! You may be able to figure out how to outsmart goldfish or cichlids to prevent them from uprooting and killing every plant you place in the tank, but some fish are dead set on destroying any semblance of plant life you put in the tank.

Knowing what you’re dealing with before you buy any plants will help you decide which plants to choose. Some are hardy enough to stand up to the abuse from your fish, while other plants regenerate fast enough that your fish won’t be able to destroy all of it before it grows back.

Décor can be a fun addition to an aquarium, but it can also serve an important purpose for some animals. Some fish like to have caves or rocky outcrops to spend time in. Nocturnal fish often prefer a dark, quiet place to spend time in during the day. Long-finned fish, like fancy goldfish and bettas, usually need to have décor that doesn’t have rough or sharp edges that may snag and tear their fins. Some fish like to squeeze inside of décor but then can’t get back out without you having to crack the décor in half with surgical precision. All of these things should be considered when you’re picking tank décor.

Cycle Your Tank

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Even though people have been buying fish and tossing them straight into a new tank or bowl for centuries, we now know that’s not the best practice. Tank cycling is the process of establishing colonies of beneficial bacteria in your aquarium. Beneficial bacteria consume waste products, namely, nitrite and ammonia, converting them to nitrate, which can then be absorbed by live plants or removed with water changes.

Ammonia and nitrite both have the potential to poison your fish, leading to permanent injury and even death. Establishing a tank environment that supports your beneficial bacteria means your tank will be able to naturally maintain safe levels of waste products.

How to Cycle a Tank

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There are a few ways to cycle a tank, but the two most common are to either add straight ammonia in small quantities to the tank or to drop food in the tank and allow it to rot, creating ammonia as it decays. This provides food for the beneficial bacteria, allowing the colonies to grow and thrive. You will need to invest in a test kit that checks ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels, and check these levels regularly while your tank is cycling. Once your tank has no ammonia or nitrite, but does have low levels of nitrate present, it’s cycled.

Of course, you’ve likely spotted the bottled bacteria or “quick start-up” products that are sold with the claim that you can immediately add fish to the tank. Some of these products are useful, but they don’t replace properly cycling your tank. If you know someone with an established tank, they may be willing to give you some used filter media to help you jumpstart your tank’s cycle. Sometimes, your local fish store will be willing to give you used filter media.

Choose the Right Filter Media

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A major component of cycling a tank and maintaining that cycle is choosing filter media that provides a high surface area for the beneficial bacteria to colonize. While many filter manufacturers advise you to change cartridges out monthly or even weekly, you are removing a chunk of your good bacteria every time you replace the cartridges. Choosing long-lasting filter media that requires little to no replacement will help you maintain these colonies.

Stock Up

While you’re waiting on your tank to cycle, which can take a matter of weeks or even months, it’s a good plan to go ahead and start stocking up on aquarium supplies. Not just things like fishnets and food, but also broad-spectrum medications and water conditioners. Having these things on hand can save you time when it matters, like if you have a sick fish. It can also save you money, especially if you watch for sales and deals instead of waiting until you need the product quickly.

Ok, Now You’re Ready!

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Once your tank is fully cycled and you’ve gotten stocked up on everything you need to bring your fish home, it’s time to bring the fish home! You can get fish from local aquatics stores, pet stores, or online vendors. Be prepared to prophylactically treat or quarantine your new fish in case they are coming to you after exposure to an illness or parasite. And as hard as it is, be patient! It can be disappointing to go to the store only to see they’re still sold out of the fish you want for the fourth week in a row. However, if you’ve already put all this time and planning into your tank, the last thing you want is to have to do is start over with getting your tank set up correctly for different fish.

Conclusion

Setting up an aquarium and bringing your new fish home is an exciting time. Nobody will blame you for being a little bit giddy! It sounds like a lot of planning, and honestly, it is. All the effort and planning that goes into setting up an aquarium for your fish will pay off, though. Providing the best environment possible for your new aquatic friends will be rewarding and learning about each fish’s unique personality and preferences will make all the time you spent setting things up worth

Do Ferrets Need Vaccination Shots? Which Ones?

 

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How Many Vaccines Do Ferrets Need?

Vaccines for canine distemper and rabies are both recommended annually for ferrets.

Rabies

Rabies is a viral disease every pet owner fears because it is a zoonosis, which means it can be transmitted from animals to humans. All mammals are susceptible to rabies and that is why ferrets are also on the list for vaccination against rabies. The first shot should happen once a ferret is around 12 weeks of age. If you aren’t sure of the exact date of birth, some veterinarians can wait a week or two to give the shot just to be sure the ferret is old enough. After the first shot is done, you need to do it again every year.

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Canine Distemper

Canine distemper is another viral disease a ferret will need a vaccine against. Your ferret should get a series of three shots throughout their first year. That means the first shot should be around 6-8 weeks, the booster shot around 10-12 weeks, and the third one at 14-16 weeks of age. After that, the next shot is after they are more than one year, and it should be given each year as long as the ferret is alive.

The Best Vaccinations For Ferrets

You, as a ferret owner, don’t have to choose the vaccination for your ferret, that is the job and responsibility of your vet. At the moment, in the USA there are two approved vaccines against rabies for ferrets and one against canine distemper.

Each of those vaccines is well known by knowledgeable ferret veterinarians, so you can ask for more information in the veterinary clinic recommended by other ferret owners or local ferret shelters. They will explain to you when, where, and which one they will choose.

Why Vaccinate Ferrets Against Rabies and Canine Distemper?

Here is more information about rabies and canine distemper that should clarify why these shots are important for your ferret’s health.

Rabies Information

We all know about rabies because it is a danger for different animals and pets. Rabies is a virus transmitted through a bite or a scratch of an infected animal and it usually leads to death.

When we look at the history and statistics, there aren’t many ferrets that have gotten rabies in the first place. One of the reasons why there aren’t that many rabies cases in ferrets is because most ferrets die a few days after catching rabies.

Most ferrets are indoor animals, which means they don’t go outside. You don’t have to walk them and the only reason to take them out is to go to the vet. Even in that case, they will spend the time outside safely stowed away in their carrier. This setup lowers the chance of a ferret catching rabies from an infected animal, especially if you don’t have cats or dogs that go outside on a daily basis. But, that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t vaccinate your ferret.

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Legal Reasons for Vaccinations

If your ferret scratches or bites another person or pet, you may have to prove that a ferret is vaccinated against rabies for legal reasons. So, if you don’t vaccinate your ferret and he scratches or bites another pet or human, the authorities can legally take away your pet from you and put it in quarantine, or worse. If you don’t have proof of vaccination, it doesn’t matter whether your ferret has rabies or not.

Rabies Symptoms

It is smart to know rabies symptoms, even though there is a small chance your ferret has it. The first signs of rabies in ferrets are nervousness and overreaction to ordinary stimuli (sounds, movements). After that, your ferret can experience disorientation, lethargy, defensiveness especially if he is in his cage (his territory).

After that, your ferret can produce too much saliva, making him drool on everything around him. One of the last symptoms of rabies is aggression toward everyone and everything, no matter who is around him. After that, your ferret can gradually lose control over his body, then it can have seizures until death eventually arrives.

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Canine Distemper

Canine distemper is a much more dangerous disease that affects dogs, wolves, foxes, and many other animals. It is a fatal disease, especially in ferrets. That is why it is very important to vaccinate your ferret against canine distemper. There is almost a 100% mortality rate of canine distemper for ferrets and once a ferret catches it, there is no cure. Vaccination is the only defense against it.

There are many ways for your ferret to catch canine distemper. It is an airborne virus, which means it is enough for a ferret to be near an infected animal or get in touch with any bodily fluids from that animal. Even scarier, you can unintentionally infect your ferret with canine distemper because you can bring it in your home on shoes, jackets, or clothes. That is why it is strongly recommended not to wear shoes in your home and change your clothes once you arrive home. But also, getting the vaccine will allow you to relax in this regard.

Incubation Period

The incubation period of canine distemper is 7-10 days. That is why it is smart to quarantine your new pet for 10-14 days so you can be sure the pet is 100% healthy. Only then can you introduce him to the rest of the animal kingdom you have in your home. The important fact about canine distemper is that the symptoms are developed much faster in younger ferrets than in older ones. That means that a young ferret can die within days after developing symptoms.

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Canine Distemper Symptoms

A few of the most common signs of canine distemper are conjunctivitis and discharge from one or both eyes. That discharge can be yellow or green. It is usually followed by a fever and severe lethargy. The most recognizable canine distemper symptom comes after a few days and it is in the form of thickening skin on some parts of the body. The chin, lips, anal, and inner upper thigh develop the lesion first. Then, as those lesions develop they become crusts, and footpads harden too. After that, your ferret may experience a severe bacterial infection or brain damage that eventually leads to death. Other not-so-common symptoms are nausea, diarrhea, seizures, etc.

What Are Risks of Vaccine Reactions?

There is always a risk of a negative reaction to any vaccine. The same story is with ferrets as pets, but it can happen more often than in cats or dogs. We don’t know the reason for those allergic reactions and we can’t know which ferret will have them. That is why it is important to stay near the vet clinic at least half an hour after vaccination. If your ferret experiences an allergic reaction, you can react quickly and your vet can help your ferret.

To avoid triggering allergic or any other bad reaction to vaccines, it is not recommended to vaccinate ferrets for both diseases at the same time. A good period between both vaccinations for rabies and canine distemper should be around two weeks (14 days).

Allergic Reactions To Vaccines

Some of the most common allergic reactions to vaccines are hives, itching, breathing difficulties, low blood pressure, low blood oxygen, even seizures.

If your ferret is prone to allergic reaction from a previous vaccination, then you should tell that to your veterinarian before he administers the shot. That way, your veterinarian can give your ferret something to minimize the reaction. The medicine depends on the type of reaction your ferret had before, his health, age, and a few other factors.

How to Find a Responsible Reptile Breeder in 2023: Tips & Questions to Ask

 

Breeding reptiles require incredibly high levels of expertise, patience, and knowledge. Reptiles are much different from mammals, needing particular environments and dietary care. Reptiles in captivity are susceptible to illness and other health issues when they aren’t cared for properly.

So, how do you know where to find a reputable breeder with the animal’s best interest at heart? It might take some digging and additional research at options—and you might even have to travel or consider shipping. Let’s take a look at what not to do, what to look for, and what you can ask.

Buying Reptiles from Pet Stores

Many reptile enthusiasts advise against buying reptiles from pet stores. Many of these animals have undergone a very stressful experience before arriving at the store.

Many employees lack the general knowledge to take care of these species, too. They don’t have the keen eye to notice when something is wrong with their health or if they are acting as expected.

Sometimes you can get lucky and find a perfectly healthy reptile with no issues, but is it worth the risk? Only you can decide.

Buying Reptiles from Previous Owners

Trading and selling are super common among reptile enthusiasts. It isn’t uncommon to see ads on social media platforms or buy/sell/trade sites where people want to swap reptiles. Hobbyists often do this for many purposes, and it doesn’t necessarily mean anything is wrong with the reptile.

However, sometimes people can use this as a way to swindle you—and that’s just the cold, hard truth. If their reptile has fallen ill, has an eating issue, or otherwise is experiencing a problem, rather than addressing it, many people look to get rid of them to turn a quick profit.

How to Find a Reputable Reptile Breeder

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Instead of buying from any other place, searching reputable breeders can land you a quality, healthy reptile you can have for years to come. So, where can you find credible breeders?

Online Sites

There are places where reptile breeders who produce stunning specimens advertise. Sites like Morph Market and Reptile Super Show let you view tons of options, browsing through alphabetically.

Reptile Foundations

You can find extremely valuable information regarding breeders and much-needed alerts on authentic reptile websites. Sometimes, there are expos to attend across the United States where breeders bring their finest specimens for viewing and purchase.

Otherwise, you can use the sites to pick up valuable information about reptiles and how to buy or trade them.