How Often Do I Clean Out My Hamsters Cage? Facts & FAQ

 

Cleaning your hamster’s bedding is going to be one of the most important aspects of keeping your little guy or gal healthy. It might not seem like a big deal, but dirty bedding stinks up your house and also causes significant health issues for your hamster.

If you’re new to hamster owning, you might wonder how often you should change the bedding in the cage. In short, you should clean out your hamster’s dirty bedding daily, and completely change it out once per week. 

Change Dirty Bedding Daily

It won’t take long to learn that hamsters poop and pee a lot. Especially when they’re young, their digestive systems work incredibly fast. If you have one or more hamsters in the cage, things can get dirty quite quickly.

Removing any soiled pieces can help retain the bedding a little bit longer. Plus, your hamster won’t be roaming around in its own waste.

Change Bedding Completely Once a Week

Image Credit: Martin Javorek, Pixabay

Every seven days, you should change out the hamster’s bedding completely. You might switch this to twice a week if you have multiple hamsters. The cage will get a lot dirtier, which requires more frequent cleaning.

How to Change Hamster Bedding

Depending on your cage setup, changing out the bedding might be a little bit different. Some cages have a pull-out tray where you simply remove the slide-out portion and dump it. Other trays require you to disassemble the top part to discard the lower half.

No matter how your cage is set up, you will need the following supplies:

• Gloves
• Disposable bag
• Bedding
• Paper towels
• A safe place to put your hamster
• Rodent-safe cleaner (optional)

Next, you can start the cleaning process.

1. Place your hamster into a safe temporary enclosure.
2. Put your gloves on.
3. Remove any of your hamster’s belongings that might be in the way.
4. Remove the bedding tray or access the bedding area.
5. Dump the soiled bedding into your disposable bag.
6. Wipe down the cage with wet paper towels (with or without rodent-safe cleaner)
7. Dry the cage completely with a paper towel.
8. Dispose of the paper towels.
9. Reassemble the cage.
10. Put back every toy, hut, and snack as your hamster had it.
11. Place your little guy back in their freshly cleaned cage.

Rodent-Safe Cleaners

Sometimes, your hamster’s cage will require routine deep cleaning.

Some rodent-friendly options are:

• Baby wipes
• Diluted apple cider vinegar
• Dawn dish soap

Never use harmful chemicals like:

• Bleach
• Aerosols
• Scented disinfectant

Image credit: Jak Jakuu, Pixabay

Best Bedding for Hamsters

Like any other pet product, certain types of bedding are better than others.

The best bedding you can get for your hamsters includes:

• Recycled paper—recycled paper is environmentally friendly, superabsorbent, and less messy than some other beddings.
• Aspen shavings—you might have heard that some wood shavings are not good for rodents, but aspen is not on that list. These shavings provide aromatic results, masking the odors of urine and feces without harmful ingredients.
• Paper pellets—paper pellet bedding is ultra-absorbent and all-natural.
• Toilet paper/paper towels—toilet paper and paper towels are inexpensive choices, especially if you are out of their regular bedding. One major downfall to this method, however, is that there are no odor-absorbing qualities.

Benefits of White Bedding

Using white bedding helps you spot soiled areas. It takes a lot of guessing work out trying to find where they went to the bathroom. You can easily clean the cage daily and also get a better grasp of their favored potty spots.

Dangerous Bedding for Hamsters

There are some rodent bedding sold on the market that is actually very dangerous for your little one.

Stay away from:

• Pine—pine bedding is very fine and can harm your hamster’s lungs.
• Cedar—like pine, cedar can irritate the airways, as it contains phenols.

Image Credit: BlurryMe, Shutterstock

How Dirty Bedding Can Harm Your Hamster

If you don’t clean out your hamster’s cage frequently enough, it can lead to specific health issues that could be detrimental for your hamster. These illnesses can be challenging to treat.

One big problem with hamsters is that they sometimes don’t show symptoms of an illness until it’s pretty far advanced. This phenomenon is due to a prey response seen in many rodents. Many times, you won’t catch the signs until it’s sometimes too late.

Common concerns linked to dirty bedding include:

• Wet tail—usually due to stress (such as living in a dirty environment), wet tail can spawn from a certain bacteria. This disease is incredibly contagious and needs addressing immediately, especially if your hamster lives with others.
• Upper respiratory illness—hamsters are incredibly sensitive to moisture. They catch upper respiratory disease very easily. Keeping their environment completely dry eliminates the likelihood.

Symptoms of Illness in Hamsters

If your hamster is showing signs of illness, these are things you can look for:

• Lethargy
• Sneezing
• Coughing
• Wheezing
• Diarrhea
• Loss of appetite
• Poor, lackluster coat
• Tail wetness

If you notice any of these symptoms, you need to get your hamster to your exotic veterinarian right away. Many illnesses are treatable if you catch them in time.

Handling Your Hamster

Image Credit: sipa , Pixabay

Hamsters generally don’t carry disease. However, sometimes they can have bacteria like E. coli and salmonella in their poop. If your hamster’s cage is filthy, handling them could cause cross-contamination. Both of these bacteria can make you very sick if they get into your system.

Always make sure you wash your hands thoroughly after handling your hamster and any of their bedding.

Can You Potty Train Your Hamster?

It might surprise you to know that you can somewhat potty train your hamsters. Like many rodents, they typically gravitate towards one corner of their cage to do their business.

You can put small disposable litter trays in each corner of the cage. Once your hamster starts favoring one of the sides, you can remove each litter box one at a time until they’re down to a singular one.

Potty training might work best while your hamster is still very young, but you can try it at any age.

Do Hamsters Eat Their Own Poop?

There are two types of hamster poop. One is a hard pellet-like texture that they usually secrete during daylight hours.

However, the nighttime poop is a little bit different. It’s usually softer and lighter—and when they eat it, it’s called coprophagy. This type of poop provides adequate nutrients that your hamster needs to thrive.

Final Thoughts

Keeping a safe, clean living environment is one of the most critical aspects of health for your hamster. Set a schedule so you can remember when it’s time to clean up.

Keep in mind that it’s best to get all the dirty pieces out of your hamster’s soiled litter daily. It would help if you also changed the bedding entirely once a week to avoid odors and sickness—but never use cedar or pine shavings. Always remember to wash your hands before and after handling your hamster.

10 Snake Myths & Misconceptions: It’s Time To Stop Believing These!

 

With more than 3,000 species of snake in the world, and examples being found everywhere except in a handful of areas, the reptile can be found just about anywhere. What’s more, 600 of those species are considered clinically venomous, which means that the venom of that species has a clinical effect on people and can cause harm.

Most snakes blend in to the background, some burrow in small holes, and others take residence in crawlspaces and outdoor buildings of property, so it is little wonder that people have been fascinated by these animals throughout history.

While we know a lot about this type of reptile, there are still many myths abound regarding snakes. Below, we dispel 10 of the most common misconceptions.

Top 10 Myths & Misconceptions About Snakes

1.Snakes Are Aggressive

In some ways, this particular myth may have aided people rather than harmed them, because it would have encouraged them to stay away from potentially deadly snakes and would have encouraged people that saw a snake to be more cautious around them.

Unfortunately, it probably also led to many people killing snakes as a means of controlling the threat of angry, marauding snakes. Most snakes, when confronted with the sight of a significantly larger animal like a human, will slither away to safety. Some may lay still and pretend to be dead, but only very few snakes will show any signs of aggression, and even then only when they feel there is no better choice.

If you see a snake, give it room, and stay out of the way, but there is no reason to believe it is going to chase you or attack for no reason.

2.Snakes Are Deaf

This myth was first reported by scientists, although it has long been disproven. Because snakes do not have ears or eardrums, and because they do not always react to loud noises, it was believed that snakes were deaf.

While it is true that they don’t hear sounds in the same way we do, but they can feel vibrations in the air and through the ground. Whereas humans have tiny bones in the ear that pick up sound, snakes have similar bones on the sides of their heads. These bones enable the snakes to pick up noises and recognize them.

Snakes hear very differently from humans, but they can and do pick up sounds, so they are not deaf.

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3.If You See A Baby, Its Mother Is Nearby

This is a very odd misconception when you consider the reality. Although some people will relay stories stating that seeing a baby snake means that the mother snake is somewhere near, this is very unlikely.

Baby snakes are born with the capability to fend for themselves completely, and after an initial week or so of not having to eat, they will venture out on their own to hunt. In fact, snakes do not show maternal or paternal instincts, at least in a way that would see them heading out foraging together or parent teaching child to hunt.

If you see a baby snake, it is likely to be on its own because it will not be courting, either.

Image Credit: PublicDomainPictures, Pixabay

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4.Babies Are More Dangerous Than Adults

If you do see a baby snake, there is no more or less reason to worry about its venom than with an adult snake. This is despite rumors that because they have not yet learned to effectively control the venom they administer, baby snakes are more dangerous than the apparently reserved adult snakes.

By the time a baby goes on its first hunt, it is fully equipped and skilled, meaning that it has total control over its venom delivery.

There may be some differences in venom levels between snakes, and even between snakes of the same species, because of diet, but the size of the baby snake means that it is likely to have less venom to deliver than an adult snake, although you shouldn’t assume that this means a small snake cannot still deliver a very venomous punch.

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5.Snakebites Should Be Sucked Out

This old myth was prevalent in Western movies and was perpetuated for many years. Fortunately, most people are aware that it isn’t true. Snakebites should not be cut or sucked out to help prevent their spread.

Venom spreads very quickly and attempting to cut or suck the bite out can actually make matters worse. The venom is essentially drawn to one area and this heightened concentration of venom will be able to do more damage to that one area. The only solution to a venomous snakebite is anti-venom, where required, or letting the venom run its course if it will not prove fatal and cannot be treated with any drugs.

6.Triangular Headed Snakes Are Venomous

Considering the devastating effects the venom of some snakes can have, it is hardly surprising that there are many myths about identifying venomous snakes.

One that seems quite common is that venomous snakes can be identified by the shape of their head. Those with triangular heads are supposedly venomous, while those with heads of other shapes are not. This isn’t true and you should never rely on this kind of technique to try and identify a venomous snake.

Other similar misconceptions exist regarding the shape of the snake’s pupils. Again, the myth is inaccurate and untrue and should be ignored.

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7.Snakes Have No Bones

Snakes are vertebrates, which means that they have a vertebrate or backbone. They also have a skull, jawbone, and they actually have ten times as many ribs as humans do, with one attached to each vertebrate.

As such, while you may have heard that snakes have no bones, this is far from the truth. Snakes have hundreds of bones.

This misconception is likely to have started because of the movement of the snake and the fact that it looks almost fluid. However, this can be explained by the fact that snake bones are so much smaller than ours and while they have a lot of bones they are laid out in such a fashion that enables them to move.

Image Credit: Dr Morley Read, Shutterstock

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8.Snakes Are Slimy

One of the reasons that many people are put off even holding a snake in the first place is because they believe them to be slimy and disgusting.

In fact, the skin is completely dry and it may be rough or smooth. Because they do not have sweat glands, snakes do not even produce sweat, and many of them live in arid conditions so rarely come into contact with water. Even water snakes dry off quickly as a means of survival. Some amphibians secrete slimy mucus, but not snakes.

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9.Milk Attracts Snakes

Some people believe that putting a saucer of milk outside will attract snakes. People might do this in the hope that the snake will get rid of mice or rats but the misconception that milk attracts snakes comes from the days of seeing snakes heading towards cow barns and dairy farms.

Farmers believed they were suckling milk from the cows when they were going hunting for rodents that live around seeds and livestock feed. Snakes are not designed for suckling, and cows are unlikely to put up with being suckled by a snake.

10.Snakes Travel In Pairs And Avenge Their Partner’s Death

As we mentioned above, snakes do not travel in familial groups, not even with their parents. The only other time that you are likely to see two snakes together is when they are courting or preparing to mate.

In either case, snakes do not recognize people and do not feel familial ties or form close bonds with a mate, which means you will not see them together and that the surviving mate of a snake that you have killed will not be able to recognize you or feel the need to take any kind of revenge.

Misconceptions About Snakes

There are thousands of distinctly different species of snakes and they are found all around the world. Estimates suggest that more than a million people own them as pets, but their secrecy and their ability to hide away in remote spots means that snakes are still shrouded in a veil of mystery.

While we should always take care when dealing with snakes, and be prepared to take evasive or corrective action around venomous species, we hope to have dispelled some of the most common and potentially damaging myths and misconceptions around these incredible animals.